steering link,and bushings
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steering link,and bushings
Can anyone tell me if their is supposed to be a bushing that goes between the pitman arm and the steering link. crawling around underneath,I noticed I have about 3/4 of an inch between the two of play. thanks
1968 F-100 Custom Cab
300 6cyl 4spd
If it ain't broke,what the hell, fix it anyways !
300 6cyl 4spd
If it ain't broke,what the hell, fix it anyways !
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re: steering link,and bushings
I don't have one...... not saying that it's right, but i don't have one.
- heep70
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re: steering link,and bushings
There is supposed to be a rubber cup in between the two that covers the balljoint. I don't there is a bushing.
Greg
1971 F250 "Highboy". SOLD to "Highboy_Firefighter_71"
2000 Subaru Outback limited.
2000 F250 4X4 PSD SuperDuty Crew.
2010 Polaris 800RMK Dragon 155"
2013 Polaris Pro 800 RMK 163"
1980 Built Toyota "Trail Rig".
My last 1971 "Highboy" pics
1971 F250 "Highboy". SOLD to "Highboy_Firefighter_71"
2000 Subaru Outback limited.
2000 F250 4X4 PSD SuperDuty Crew.
2010 Polaris 800RMK Dragon 155"
2013 Polaris Pro 800 RMK 163"
1980 Built Toyota "Trail Rig".
My last 1971 "Highboy" pics
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re: steering link,and bushings
No, there isn't supposed to be any kind of bushing there. Sounds to me like you really need to replace that steering linkage fast! There should be absolutely NO play between the linkage and the Pitman arm. Are you sure that's where the play is though, and not in the ball-and-socket of the linkage? If the nut on top of the linkage is tightened down properly, it should draw the linkage up into the Pitman arm very tightly and I don't think it would wear out there, but the ball-and-socket area will definitely wear out, causing the play.
I guess the reason I'm asking this is that if the wear IS in the ball-and-socket, then you just need to replace the linkage. If for some reason the play is between the Pitman arm itself and the linkage stud, then you're quite possibly looking at having to replace both the linkage AND the Pitman arm to restore everything.
I guess the reason I'm asking this is that if the wear IS in the ball-and-socket, then you just need to replace the linkage. If for some reason the play is between the Pitman arm itself and the linkage stud, then you're quite possibly looking at having to replace both the linkage AND the Pitman arm to restore everything.
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-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
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re: steering link,and bushings
yeah,it appears to be the ball,not the pitman arm.Would mean replacing the long drive link.what are they worth new?Also what do you need to get them off,a ball joint puller I guess? Thanks again guys.
1968 F-100 Custom Cab
300 6cyl 4spd
If it ain't broke,what the hell, fix it anyways !
300 6cyl 4spd
If it ain't broke,what the hell, fix it anyways !
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re: steering link,and bushings
Since you're going to replace the steering linkage anyway, you can try just threading the castle nut down enought where the top of it is even with the top of the stud and giving it a few good hard whacks with a BFH. However, normally you don't have the room to swing a hammer, so you have to resort to tools.
You can either use a ball joint separator (commonly called a pickle fork), though normally it's a bit large for use with a tie rod, but there are also versions available that have a smaller business end specifically for use with tie rods. These are about $12-$15 each, or you can get a full set which contains several different sizes for $35-$40:
What I use and highly recommend is the use of an actual tie rod puller. I can't begin to count the times I've used mine, and it's quick and easy. This little tool is WELL worth the money spent, though you're probably gonna pay about $50 for it. It just clamps down onto the Pitman arm and pushes the tie rod end out...and when you're working in a confined space, it's a real time-saver:
The center link you're needing to replace is gonna run you about $80-$90, depending on where you go.
You can either use a ball joint separator (commonly called a pickle fork), though normally it's a bit large for use with a tie rod, but there are also versions available that have a smaller business end specifically for use with tie rods. These are about $12-$15 each, or you can get a full set which contains several different sizes for $35-$40:
What I use and highly recommend is the use of an actual tie rod puller. I can't begin to count the times I've used mine, and it's quick and easy. This little tool is WELL worth the money spent, though you're probably gonna pay about $50 for it. It just clamps down onto the Pitman arm and pushes the tie rod end out...and when you're working in a confined space, it's a real time-saver:
The center link you're needing to replace is gonna run you about $80-$90, depending on where you go.
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
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re: steering link,and bushings
thanks for all the info keith.I called the local napa,and it runs at 140.00 can. Is their only 1style centre link that fits all 67-72 2wd trucks.Also,where the two drive shafts come together,their is a type of round snub with a rubber bushing.Is this supposed to have any movement in it? I should stop looking around,at this thing,as I keep finding more $ to spend.
1968 F-100 Custom Cab
300 6cyl 4spd
If it ain't broke,what the hell, fix it anyways !
300 6cyl 4spd
If it ain't broke,what the hell, fix it anyways !
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- New Member
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2004 10:53 pm
- Location: Penticton , B.C.
- Contact:
re: steering link,and bushings
thanks for the help guys.I went up to the local pick a part yesterday armed with a pickle fork.I managed to find an almost perfect centre link with just very slight wear in the outer ball joint.Also had alot of trouble with the pitman arm joint till I wacked it sideways with the hammer a couple,three times.pickle fork worked well after that,thanks for that tip willowbilly .Best part is,they only charged me $3.99,not bad,considering a new one is 140.00 canadioan $ .
1968 F-100 Custom Cab
300 6cyl 4spd
If it ain't broke,what the hell, fix it anyways !
300 6cyl 4spd
If it ain't broke,what the hell, fix it anyways !