It's a little pricey but I went with the PowerTrax No Slip http://www.powertrax.com/index.php/prod ... ax-no-slip Uses existing carrier and installation is simple. Haven't actually rolled with it but it's in and waiting for something to feed hp to it.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
Would help to know what model truck, the axle and a bit more info on the use other than "street". Best video I know explaining the options out there is this one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x40WGUtdaLI
I put a power trax unit in a 1997 f-150 8.8 rear when it was only 90 days off the dealers lot, 189000 miles later its still working like the day it was put in. Only time you notice it is if the windows are down and your turning sharp you hear it "clicking" , if the truck is unloaded and its wet from rain while taking off from a stop making a hard turn going up hill on pavement you get a little wheel "chirp". Other than that don't even notice it. The newer models of the power trax are "quieter" so you don't hear it working, I've help several folks put them in their trucks none of them have ever talked about any kind of problems with them. From my experience for a on road driving 4x4 use a selctable locker in the front axle if budget alows. Ox locker with cable engagement best set up I've seen for that in person so far.
I heat my house with a outside taylor wood stove, so driving off road to get the wood for it the "locking" rear end comes in handy. Any way just my on it from my experence. LIke most things here more info on the use the better answer can be given.
"Beauty is only skin deep....Ugly is to the bone"
It is more important to understand what you don't know than what you do know,because then you can start to learn..???
"you must deal with the attaboys and the ass chewing s with your head up and looking them in the eyes" T.J.E. aka My Dad
There are only three types of people wolves, sheepdogs, and sheep. What are you?
Usage... Hard to explain I guess it is not really used much, but when it is it could be anything from a trash/home depot run to pulling my friends car or utility trailer out of a storage lot (which is mud, grass and uphill). I don't expect it will ever go to a track. It is just a fun truck not a daily driver.
We are talking about the factory 9", I'm thinking I will probably leave the factory 3.50 gear in it along with the 28 spline axles.
The truck is currently sitting on a Dana 44 with some sort of LS/locker - I think we determined it was from a 68 F100 and was an Equi-Lok, but I am sort of fuzzy on the details. It seems to be fine, but I think it is from a 4x4 and the pinion angle is not quite right so I'd prefer to put the 9"back in.
The truck is a 72 F100 long bed 2wd. It has a built 390, a built c6 with an ATI fuelmaster converter.
I actually watched that video earlier - I'm not entirely certain the 30,000 mile estimate is accurate for a trac-lok, but even if it is I don't see it going 30,000 miles anytime soon... I also think the FRPP diff may have upgraded clutches.
The reason I had not considered a "lunchbox locker" is that I figure the 9" needs bearings anyway so I might as well do a complete diff... I'm still waffling a little on changing the gear too...
I guess my concern with the detroit locker is it being to abrupt with the light rear end, the noise isn't really a big concern. My concern with he true trac is that if I understand correctly it needs to spin before it locks and it needs some friction to lock as well. I could be wrong though.
For me the truetrack has operated smoothly enough that it is not noticeable i have been in snow, ice and that snotty mud that is prevalent in the southwest the only issue with it would be if one wheel is off the ground for me in my truck that should never become an issue but others with truetracks have told me that slight braking solves that. IMHO for a street/work truck or trail rig that is not a purpose built crawler it's an ideal choice
"Beauty is only skin deep....Ugly is to the bone"
It is more important to understand what you don't know than what you do know,because then you can start to learn..???
"you must deal with the attaboys and the ass chewing s with your head up and looking them in the eyes" T.J.E. aka My Dad
There are only three types of people wolves, sheepdogs, and sheep. What are you?
Keep in mind that the Detroit Locker was used in the original Shelby GT-350's for track use. I believe that statement says a great deal, if price is no issue.
""Never shoot a large caliber man with a small caliber bullet."
2017 Ford Raptor
1970 F250 4x4
1948 Willys CJ2A w/ Ford Flathead V-8
1975 Ford Bronco
If I was going to run a Ford differential, it would be a 4-pinion Traction-Lok and not an Equa-Lok.
I saw a video some years ago in an interview with Carroll Shelby. He said if the Ford Traction-Lok differential had been available in '65, he would have installed it in the Shelby Mustangs instead of the (DAPCO) Detroit Lockers. The Ford Traction-Lok didn't come out until 1969. The only Ford limited slip differential available for the 9-inch ('57-'68) was the Ford Equa-Lok --not good for high horse power or high torque loads.
Now that I have more information, I understand your dilemma a lot better. I say dilemma because there are so many different ways to go with the 9" rear for traction. I'd say that a Torsen unit will suit your situation best, I will say that I don't think you will go wrong if you put a Detroit locker in though. What I do know is that when you don't have anything but a open differential, it will let you know it at every chance it gets. Good luck DuckRyder on what ever type you go with.
eggman thank you for taking the time to put your personal experience down - it helps. If you don't mind, are you running a synthetic gear lube?
I believe the Ford Racing Trac-Lok is a 4 pinion and has carbon fibre clutches, I will have to try to verify.
A Truetrac is slightly more money than the Trac-Lok, but probably the friction modifier will make it close to a wash... a Detroit locker is $75 ish dollars more...
"Beauty is only skin deep....Ugly is to the bone"
It is more important to understand what you don't know than what you do know,because then you can start to learn..???
"you must deal with the attaboys and the ass chewing s with your head up and looking them in the eyes" T.J.E. aka My Dad
There are only three types of people wolves, sheepdogs, and sheep. What are you?
Thanks eggman. Reason I ask is that some (including Eaton) say that synthetic lube may decrease the effectiveness of the Truetrac. My preferred gear oil is Mobil1 which also contains LS friction modifier so I'll need to research gear oil a bit, maybe Delvac1 if I can find it.
Maybe I will get around to doing this before I forget all we have talked about...
I just installed a TrueTrac in the 10.25 Sterling that I installed in my '70 F-250. The instructions indicated that synthetics were OK but it would perform better without any limited slip additive. I found a few without the additive and ended up with Redline 75W140 NS. The Sterling requires the 75W140. They also make a 75W90 NS if that would work better in the 9". Had my first drive today with the Sterling and it works great. I used a TrueTrac in the 9" I had in my Cobra replica and it was perfect for the street. I think you'll be happy with your purchase. Anyone need a Dana 60?
on it from my experence. LIke most things here more info on the use the better answer can be given.
