72 F100/99 Ford Lightning/06 CV Build.

[devindastrup]

Okay, I see what you mean about the frame rails. On mine I cut a little bit of that out for my IRS install, so it's not quite like that now. I went with a smaller universal tank and was able to mount it way up into the frame, so it barely hangs down. The only downside is that it's only 16 gallons.

I had a 16 Gallon Fuel cell but the one I got was a lousy product. At least I thought so. Back it went.

[poke em]

I wanted to install a mustang tank, but the stabilizer bar on the IRS gets in the way and it just does not fit. The tank I used was from tanks inc and I couldn't be happier with the quality of it.

Did you find a short bed for your truck or are you cutting the long bed down? Also did you already cut the 4" off the back of the frame rails? I waited until i was ready to install the bed before cutting so I could leave as much as possible. Now I need to figure out where to drill holes for my sport bumper.

[devindastrup]

I wanted to install a mustang tank, but the stabilizer bar on the IRS gets in the way and it just does not fit. The tank I used was from tanks inc and I couldn't be happier with the quality of it.

Did you find a short bed for your truck or are you cutting the long bed down? Also did you already cut the 4" off the back of the frame rails? I waited until i was ready to install the bed before cutting so I could leave as much as possible. Now I need to figure out where to drill holes for my sport bumper.

I picked up two short beds. One has a little damage on the right bedside. It's fairly minimal. It also has a fairly think bed floor from its age of being a trailer and tilting forward. The second was also a trailer. Bed sides are nice and straight. Floor has a hole cut in it and the front cross member rusted out where it mounts to the frame.

Good thing is I also have a 72 high boy I'm putting a flatbed on. The bed that came off that has a good section for my first bed bedside that needs attention and the front cross member is in good shape. So I can use it to repair both of my short beds.

Although I am torn about which one to use. My original long bed is extremely clean. Very straight. Not a single dent, ding or rust on the bedsides. Normal ware on the bed floor but nothing to repair... Just don't want the pain of cutting it down... Thinking to make a bed for my 4 year old out of it...

[devindastrup]

Got my tank straps all mounted. Turned out just as I hoped! Need to clean everything up and POR15 them. The tank will have a sump like Sean's LS F100.

[devindastrup]

Has anyone ever used this Boelube Paste for drill bit lubricant? Picked some up and seems to be decent stuff!

Also, A shot of my 72 High Boy that I am putting a flatbed on and sending it to my dad's cabin in Alaska.

[devindastrup]

Its been a while since I posted. The last year and a half have been extremely busy. We bought a property for my car dealership and had TONS of demolition. Spent Pretty much all of 2016 doing demo and building our new office and car lot. Moved in in December and I'm finally going to be getting back to my truck. Over this time, I've decided to change a few things. First is the rear end. I decided I dont want the really deep dish wheels you have to run with the Explorer 8.8. So I'm sourcing a 9". How much difference does a 28 spline vs a 31 spline make? Second, I'd like to make some changes to my frame. Instead of fixing what I dont like about mine, I snagged a different frame for $200 to start over with. Still a long bed frame that I will have to cut down but I'm not afraid of that. And the price was right. Still haven't found anything I like for the shift linkage. I like the setup for the 4R70 but it wont work on the 4R100. Kind of bummed about that.

As I am starting over on my frame, Is there anything you guys would suggest doing, or not doing to it?
How much difference does a 28 spline vs a 31 spline make?
I'm also going to redo my fuel tank. Still want the Mustang 22 gallon cause I like the fuel capacity. How hard is the in tank pump Sean mentioned?


Thanks
Devin

[trick]

I work for Boeing. That stuff is great to drill, ream, ect... I use it every day at work. Great build by the way. "Trick"

[Monkey-1]

Liking the build so far, subscribed!

[devindastrup]

Ok. So things have finally settled down after all this time. I snagged another frame and started over cause I didn’t feel comfortable with how I built up the front end. Time was making me rush... so, I snagged another frame, and here it is. Sand blasted so I have a clean slate!

It was a long bed, so I braced it, leveled it, measured about 10 times, and cut 16.2” out of it. Went back together great. Beveled and welded it up. I’ll end up plating it, but want to get the cab and bed on it to double check it’s body lines. I don’t foresee an issue though.

I also got the rear end c notched and welded up. Had a 1/4” thick 5 1/2” pipe I cut to length at 3 5/8” the. Cut the pipe in half and use one on each side. I’m going to box the rear end in but need to get some paint slung first.

I got the front cross member cut out as well. Need to do a little more cleanup prior to drilling holes for the new front end.

One question I had is how have people found where to mount the rear mounts on the lower control arms? I haven’t been able to find any measurements or locating diagrams for them. This was one area I didn’t like before. I have noticed some mount them at the original 45*. Any suggestions here would be greatly appreciated!

Using this diagram as most are.
http://i44.tinypic.com/550xz7.jpg

[devindastrup]

So I started over on a fresh frame... I build a jig using the CV diagram for placement of the guide holes and bolt holes. I got it all lined up, double and triple checked everything, then drilled holes. It got everything drilled to 5/8” holes, went to check fitment of my subframe and my subframe must be different! The rear bolts are 3.5” behind the guide pins and the front bolts are 6.5” in front of the pin. Has anyone run into this? Drives me nuts because I started over to make for damn sure I was right on the money! Now I’m all goofed up!

[devindastrup]

Here is a shot of my measurement from rear bolt to pin.

https://ibb.co/eVnj3c
https://ibb.co/j0Oric

[devindastrup]

Who are you guys using as an image host to be able to get the html code to post it on forums?

[devindastrup]

http://imgur.com/9Kj01pI
http://imgur.com/fOmt2tL

[Ranchero50]

In IBB on the page with your picture, click embed codes and copy the full sized forum script [ IMG ]

Paste that here, it'll look like this:

Code: Select all

[url=https://ibb.co/j0Oric][img]https://preview.ibb.co/dUaRGx/03_A867_FE_5437_4705_9627_0297_C140_B17_A.png[/img][/url]

And it'll show up as this with a click back to IBB for the full sized version

[WhitsEnd]

.
I found during my build that the "locating pins" are not on the axle centerline. I removed the pins, since they are only there for quickly locating on the assembly line. I saw no sense in drilling an extra two holes in my frame. They serve no purpose when you have all of the other dimensions to locate the through bolts. I don't know why everyone insists on using them. It's extra work.

I've found the other dimensions on that diagram are correct, but not the location of the pins. If your bolt holes are located properly according do that diagram, just cut the pins off like I did and move on.

I also found the rear edge of the top hole at the front of the frame is 29" from the centerline on my '70 frame. You can see where I marked the frame "29" in my pics.