Hi all
My truck is a 69 Ranger LWB
Engine - 360 FE
I would like to add overdrive and am contemplating switching to a 4R70W.
Can anyone give me the rough installation steps?
I am aware that I would need an adapter plate. I am wondering how involved this job is
Thanks!
Bob
C6 to 4R70W
Moderators: FORDification, 70_F100
-
GPatrick
- New Member
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2014 12:32 am
Re: C6 to 4R70W
i installed a 4R70W in my 1970 F-250 with a 390. There are a lot of steps and I can give you details if you leave me a PM with your email address. The quick list:
FE to 4R70W adapter. I used a 4R from a modular motor which are a lot more plentiful. I had to modify the adapter for the mod motor alignment dowel bolts but they have redesigned. The mod motor version from a 2002/3 full size Ford or Mercury has bosses on the front that allow a shifter mechanism that uses the original column shift. With the mod motor version you need to convert the tailhousing to the short version with the short output shaft. The Windsor version (Mustang V6, F-150 V-6, and late 5.0 Explorers) has the right tail housing but the shift linkage would be harder unless you go to a floor shifter.
Baumann Controller - I like the quick shift 4 because it has more programability.
Firewall to tunnel lip modification - because the transmission is shifted back with the adapter, the top of the bellhousing hits that lip. I percussion engineered the lip area to fit. To get everything to fit, I had to modify the front portion of the tunnel cover to match the profile of the modified firewall/tunnel area
Move the trans crossmember back an inch or so. Also you need to modify the mount arrangement for the 4R mount and possibly use shims to get the final height.
Driveshaft - The factory slip yoke uses odd u-joints so you need to buy and aftermarket slip joint that uses standard u-joint sizes. The driveshaft must be shortened because the combined length of the adapter and the trans is longer than the C-6. I needed to shim my center bearing down about 3/8" to get the angles right.
TPS - You need to mount a throttle position sensor for the transmission controller. There are options depending on your carb.
Transmission cooler - The factory radiator mounted unit was totally insufficient for the 4R. I installed a massive unit in front of the radiator and now my temps are well withing spec.
Speedometer. Up until 2003 (on most applications) the tail shaft was still cut with speedo gears. You will need to source a new speedo cable. I got lazy and bought a pulse to speedo cable driver and use the output from the Baumann controller to drive it. The speed is spot on and can be adjusted pretty easily if necessary. An extravagance but it saved me time.
All in I have about $3000 into the project including a rebuild with some upgraded components. A five-speed manual conversion will cost that or more unless you hunt down junk yard parts.
For me it was worth it. We intend to use the F-250 for a travel trailer tow vehicle and the trans was just one component of many upgrades. It runs and shifts great and with a direct overdrive it dropped my cruise RPM from 23 or 2400 RPM down to 1680 or so. You could probably install an overdrive unit off the end of the C-6 but you won't have torque converter lockup and the C-6 eats a lot of horsepower in good form. Hopefully all of the steps don't scare you off - it is certainly not plug and play but can be accomplished with reasonable effort.
One mistake I made is that I did not measure the engine/transmission shaft angle before I took it all apart. I had to do a lot of research on-line and test fitting to get it where it needs to be. If I had measured the angle in advance I would have known exactly where to position the engine with the new transmission.
I will be read to fire up my fresh 447 stroker this weekend and I may end up swapping in a 4R100 as I will be at the limits of the 4R70W.
FE to 4R70W adapter. I used a 4R from a modular motor which are a lot more plentiful. I had to modify the adapter for the mod motor alignment dowel bolts but they have redesigned. The mod motor version from a 2002/3 full size Ford or Mercury has bosses on the front that allow a shifter mechanism that uses the original column shift. With the mod motor version you need to convert the tailhousing to the short version with the short output shaft. The Windsor version (Mustang V6, F-150 V-6, and late 5.0 Explorers) has the right tail housing but the shift linkage would be harder unless you go to a floor shifter.
Baumann Controller - I like the quick shift 4 because it has more programability.
Firewall to tunnel lip modification - because the transmission is shifted back with the adapter, the top of the bellhousing hits that lip. I percussion engineered the lip area to fit. To get everything to fit, I had to modify the front portion of the tunnel cover to match the profile of the modified firewall/tunnel area
Move the trans crossmember back an inch or so. Also you need to modify the mount arrangement for the 4R mount and possibly use shims to get the final height.
Driveshaft - The factory slip yoke uses odd u-joints so you need to buy and aftermarket slip joint that uses standard u-joint sizes. The driveshaft must be shortened because the combined length of the adapter and the trans is longer than the C-6. I needed to shim my center bearing down about 3/8" to get the angles right.
TPS - You need to mount a throttle position sensor for the transmission controller. There are options depending on your carb.
Transmission cooler - The factory radiator mounted unit was totally insufficient for the 4R. I installed a massive unit in front of the radiator and now my temps are well withing spec.
Speedometer. Up until 2003 (on most applications) the tail shaft was still cut with speedo gears. You will need to source a new speedo cable. I got lazy and bought a pulse to speedo cable driver and use the output from the Baumann controller to drive it. The speed is spot on and can be adjusted pretty easily if necessary. An extravagance but it saved me time.
All in I have about $3000 into the project including a rebuild with some upgraded components. A five-speed manual conversion will cost that or more unless you hunt down junk yard parts.
For me it was worth it. We intend to use the F-250 for a travel trailer tow vehicle and the trans was just one component of many upgrades. It runs and shifts great and with a direct overdrive it dropped my cruise RPM from 23 or 2400 RPM down to 1680 or so. You could probably install an overdrive unit off the end of the C-6 but you won't have torque converter lockup and the C-6 eats a lot of horsepower in good form. Hopefully all of the steps don't scare you off - it is certainly not plug and play but can be accomplished with reasonable effort.
One mistake I made is that I did not measure the engine/transmission shaft angle before I took it all apart. I had to do a lot of research on-line and test fitting to get it where it needs to be. If I had measured the angle in advance I would have known exactly where to position the engine with the new transmission.
I will be read to fire up my fresh 447 stroker this weekend and I may end up swapping in a 4R100 as I will be at the limits of the 4R70W.
Gary
Littleton, CO
Littleton, CO
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sawdust1
- New Member
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2016 9:34 am
Re: C6 to 4R70W
Hi Gary
Your thorough response was exactly what I was hoping to receive!
And yes.... it does sound daunting
I will send you a pm and look forwards to more info
Thanks!
Your thorough response was exactly what I was hoping to receive!
And yes.... it does sound daunting
I will send you a pm and look forwards to more info
Thanks!